Pose and dispose?

The passers-by stared. Walking down the street, surrounded by a phalanxA set of people banding closely together. The word originated as a military term in ancient Greece. of smartly dressed men with umbrellas, was an extraordinary figure. With platinum blonde hair and enormous eyelashes, wearing a bright pink gown with a 25-foot train, it was Lady Gaga. She could only be going one place: the Metropolitan Museum of Art.   

The Met is one of the world's greatest museums. It includes a jaw-dropping fashion department; the Costume Institute, which since 1948 has held a grand annual dinner to raise money for its collection and open its latest exhibition.

The Met GalaA festive occasion. The word derives from a French verb meaning to rejoice. has come to be seen as one of the most glamourous events in the world, attended by superstars who pay a small fortune for tickets. In 2019 it raised a record $15m; this year tickets cost $35,000 each. Guests are encouraged to wear outfits inspired by the subject of the new exhibition, with themes that have ranged from CubismAn artistic movement at the beginning of the 20th Century which involved looking at an object from multiple viewpoints. to Punk.   

With 2020's party cancelled, this year's excited even more anticipation. The theme was "American independence" and four celebrities, all aged 25 or under, were invited to be co-chairs: the actor Timothee Chalamet, singer Billie Eilish, writer Amanda Gorman and tennis star Naomi Osaka.

The names of the guests are not announced in advance. Tickets can only be bought by invitation, and everyone who comes must be approved by Anna WintourEditor of American Vogue since 1988. She is famous for her chilly manner, which has earned her the nickname "Nuclear Wintour".. Not until they arrive is anybody quite sure who will turn up.

For designers, being represented at the Costume Institute is of huge importance. In 2009 Azzedine AlaiaA Tunisian fashion designer known for his independent spirit. He died in 2017. was so furious at being left out of its Model As Muse exhibition that he asked his clients not to wear his designs at the gala. In solidarity, Naomi Campbell decided not to turn up at all.

There was another controversy in 2018, when the gala had a Roman Catholic theme which some considered blasphemous Showing disrespect for God or a religion.. Rihanna raised eyebrows by wearing a papal mitre.

Some question whether the gala should take place. They point out that the guests are paying huge amounts of money - and the millions raised will pay for other outfits to be shown in glass cases.

The gala, they say, sums up the extravagance that make fashion so reprehensible.

Others see it as an important advertisement for an industry which creates employment across the world, brings joy to people's lives and helps them feel better about themselves. After the gloom of the pandemic, it could not be more vital.

Is fashion trivial?

Yes. It is not just trivial but dangerous. It embodies the idea that nothing is of lasting value, which is the last message we need when trying to create a sustainable lifestyle. The industry allows a small number of people to dictate what we wear. It is in their interests to make clothes that are quickly replaced by new ones.

No. Fashion is a precious spur to innovation. It does not have to be wasteful, as the rise in popularity of second-hand clothes and upcycled couture demonstrates. It lets the imagination run free and allows people to express their personalities. Countries where everyone dresses the same are dismal places.