"How can you live the high life if you do not wear the high heels?" once quipped designer Sonia Rykiel. If this year's London Fashion Week is anything to go by, high heels may not be so essential after all.
5,000 years on, high heels are given the boot
"How can you live the high life if you do not wear the high heels?" once quipped designer Sonia Rykiel. If this year's London Fashion Week is anything to go by, high heels may not be so essential after all.
<h2 class="wp-block-heading eplus-wrapper">Q & A</h2>
That, at least, was the impression after Victoria Beckham's homecoming show on Sunday. Her latest collection had all the glamour you would expect: all-white satin tuxedos, bright gold brocadeA rich fabric woven with a raised pattern, typically with gold or silver thread. jeans and silk parachute dresses. But one Fashion Week staple was conspicuously absent: high heels.
"I wanted to create a collection my customers could really relate to," Beckham commented afterwards - "everything is really wearable."
She may be onto something. Last year, sales of high heels declined by 12% while sales of women's trainers soared by 37%. "Social moresThe characteristic customs and conventions of a society. are changing," says retail analyst Katie Smith.
This decline is the latest twist in a surprising story of style that stretches back thousands of years.
Murals dating back to 3500 BC show Egyptians wearing high heels during religious ceremonies. They were common in ancient Greek theatre too. Actors wore raised shoes called kothornin to show the class of their character - higher shoes meant higher status.
From the 10th Century, PersianA language, also known as Farsi, spoken in Iran. noblemen wore heels for horse riding. This trend spread to Europe, and by the 17th Century, aristocratic men regularly wore them as a sign of their superiority. Louis XIVA 17th-Century French king who expanded the powers of the French monarchy and turned his country into the greatest power in the world. However, by the end of his long, 72-year reign he had squandered much of this advantage. was famous for his five-inch red-bottomed heels (similar to the Louboutins Cardi BAn American rapper, born in 1992. famously sung about).
The shoes only became a symbol of femininity after the EnlightenmentAn intellectual movement of the eighteenth Century that ruthlessly criticised religion, traditions and inherited privilege.. From then, 20th Century mass production and high-heeled pinups liken Betty GrableAmerican actress, dancer and model. Her iconic pin-up poster was named one of Time's 100 Most Influential Photographs of All Time. and Marilyn MonroeThe actress (1926 - 1962) is best known for her roles in films such as Some Like It Hot and The Seven Year Itch. popularised them for a modern generation of women.
However, a cultural shift seems to be in motion. Recently, Cannes Film Festival organisers were criticised when they insisted women wear heels to film screenings. Expecting women to wear them is sexist, some argue. After all, Christian LouboutinFashion designer and creator of high-end stiletto shoes. himself once said: "the core of my work is dedicated not to pleasing women but to pleasing men."
Should we mourn the decline of high heels?
Absolutely not, some argue. High-heeled shoes are an outdated symbol of everyday sexism in which women are held to oppressive beauty standards to satisfy the male gaze. Then there is the chronic pain and foot injury they cause. The day when nobody wears them any longer will be one of celebration.
We should not encourage their demise, others respond. For decades many women have felt empowered by wearing high heels. Declaring them sexist falsely implies that women are complicit in their own oppression. Instead, we should celebrate all aspects of femininity - high-heeled or not.
What do we know? A survey by the American Podiatric Medical Association found that 72% of women wear high-heeled shoes (39% wear them daily, while 33% wear them less often). Of the respondents, 82% reported wearing high heels "for fashion or style," while 73% wear them "to complete my professional attire." Only 39% of women surveyed said they wear heels to appear taller.
What do we not know? We do not know how the downward trend in sales of high heels will change in the future. Luxury brands of shoes are still highly desirable, and many women still wear heels for leisure and work. We do not know if Victoria Beckham's high heel-free collection will catch on in the fashion industry. While her models wore flat shoes, Beckham herself was wearing six-inch stilettos.
Brocade - A rich fabric woven with a raised pattern, typically with gold or silver thread.
Mores - The characteristic customs and conventions of a society.
Persian - A language, also known as Farsi, spoken in Iran.
Louis XIV - A 17th-Century French king who expanded the powers of the French monarchy and turned his country into the greatest power in the world. However, by the end of his long, 72-year reign he had squandered much of this advantage.
Cardi B - An American rapper, born in 1992.
Enlightenment - An intellectual movement of the eighteenth Century that ruthlessly criticised religion, traditions and inherited privilege.
Betty Grable - American actress, dancer and model. Her iconic pin-up poster was named one of Time's 100 Most Influential Photographs of All Time.
Marilyn Monroe - The actress (1926 - 1962) is best known for her roles in films such as Some Like It Hot and The Seven Year Itch.
Christian Louboutin - Fashion designer and creator of high-end stiletto shoes.
5,000 years on, high heels are given the boot
Glossary
Brocade - A rich fabric woven with a raised pattern, typically with gold or silver thread.
Mores - The characteristic customs and conventions of a society.
Persian - A language, also known as Farsi, spoken in Iran.
Louis XIV - A 17th-Century French king who expanded the powers of the French monarchy and turned his country into the greatest power in the world. However, by the end of his long, 72-year reign he had squandered much of this advantage.
Cardi B - An American rapper, born in 1992.
Enlightenment - An intellectual movement of the eighteenth Century that ruthlessly criticised religion, traditions and inherited privilege.
Betty Grable - American actress, dancer and model. Her iconic pin-up poster was named one of Time‘s 100 Most Influential Photographs of All Time.
Marilyn Monroe - The actress (1926 - 1962) is best known for her roles in films such as Some Like It Hot and The Seven Year Itch.
Christian Louboutin - Fashion designer and creator of high-end stiletto shoes.